Hoe fotografeer ik 's nachts

pluggie · Post by **pluggie** » 25 Dec 2006, 04:05

Een trui is ook een ideale zak rijst:

pipichantal · Post by **pipichantal** » 25 Dec 2006, 09:03

Arnold ten Pas · Post by **Arnold ten Pas** » 27 Dec 2006, 00:38

Hoi,

Mis wel een beetje de uitleg bij de foto's. Volgende foto is al wat ouder en komt nog uit het dia-tijdperk. Gedurende de festiviteiten ter gelegenheid van 100 jaar luchtvaart in Parijs (1998) was de Champs Elysée omgetoverd tot een static. Deze Rafale A was de blikvanger aan de kop van de static. Aangezien ik geen statief bij me had heb ik een lantaarnpaal gebruikt en 15 seconden niet geademd

. Ik heb meerdere versies geprobeerd maar uiteindelijk was volgens mij 15sec de beste sluitertijd. Verdere gegevens:

Camera: Minolta 7000i
Lens: 70-210/4.0
Film: Fuji Sensia

Dr.T · Post by **Dr.T** » 27 Dec 2006, 01:18

Very nice picture dude

mustang1 · Post by **mustang1** » 27 Dec 2006, 13:24

See also: http://www.scramble.nl/forum/viewtopic. ... 159#151159" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

<img src="http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/ ... G_1246.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting">

<img src="http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/ ... G_1248.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting">

Flyboy · Post by **Flyboy** » 27 Dec 2006, 14:23

Hi Mustang1,

Great pictures. Would u care to share with us how u did it??

mustang1 · Post by **mustang1** » 27 Dec 2006, 17:00

Hi Flyboy, as a professional photographer I do things by nature and don’t usually think about all the steps creating a picture. As light changes constantly and is different in every situation at any given time, there’s no golden rule or holy grail for this night photography! First you’ll have to understand what your sensor does and how it’s interpretate your idea’s. Other than that you’ll have to learn & try this by trial and error. The only thing i can do is visualizing my steps for you and give you some points of thought.

First of all…always use a good and steady tripod! NOT those (aluminium) lightweight ones. I use a Manfrotto tripod with two different heads (#141RC and a #222). I use the #141RC for the heavy lenses. Remember, don’t forget to switch off your IS (Image Stabilizer) or it will work against you! Instead of using your finger taking the shots (or use the self timer), you’ll need a remote switch to exclude any vibrations. Don’t drop the remote switch cord after you have pushed the button, it will cause little vibrations…keep it in your hand. I use some VELCRO, both on the backside of the remote switch as on the tripod legs as well. Now I can stick it carefully to the tripod. The next step is setting the ISO value! This is of course depending if the aircraft is moving or not.

First I will explain the stationary aircraft situation. (Here you will get the best pictures). If the aircraft is not moving or holding short on a platform, I use ISO 400. The program I choose is Av (Aperture value). So you stay in control of your DOF and let the camera calculate the shutter speed. This will be somewhere between 20 or 30 sec. Your goal is to have sharp pictures so choose for an small aperture (f/8 or higher). Just play with that number. On my camera i have a small dilemma…in the custom functions menu there’s an option to activate noise reduction. The advantage is that this noise reduction is better than all the programs I know!!! The disadvantage is that it takes the same time doing its great job as the time needed to take the picture. So if you take a picture of an F-16 holding short just before take-off and you used 30 seconds for taking that picture, the camera will need another 30 seconds proceeding it’s job…so you can’t do nothing…this seems like ages and is a very frustrating!!!

The moving aircraft situation is the most difficult situation. If the airplane is moving I use ISO 1600-3200 (though I prefer ISO1600) depending on the given shutter speed. Preferable you’ll need a light sensitive (high quality) lens f/2.8 for this job! I use a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM for this work. I use the same tripod but sometimes using one leg! So you eliminate the vertical movement and use the horizontal movement along with the aircraft. Rarely you can use only the tripod head for horizontal movement (only if its perfect level), because of the perspective. The apertures I use are between f/2.8 and f/4.5. Depending on the speed of the aircraft (eg taxiing, landing, or take-off) you’ll need to adjust your ISO and Av to get the desired shutter speed.

Oh yeah…bring a small flashlight!

Kleintje Pils · Post by **Kleintje Pils** » 27 Dec 2006, 17:09

mustang1 wrote: First I will explain the stationary aircraft situation. (Here you will get the best pictures). If the aircraft is not moving or holding short on a platform, I use ISO 400.

Why do you use ISO 400? If the F-16's are not moving you can better use ISO 100 for better and sharper pictures. My experience last time at volkel was that there is enough time to shoot with a long shutter speed.

mustang1 · Post by **mustang1** » 27 Dec 2006, 17:29

I tried to use ISO 100 but the camera doesn't show shutter speed values greater than 30 seconds! 30 sec is the maxiumum (auto calculated) shutter speed. After 30 seconds you'll need to use the bulb mode and do your own timing!

Besides the differences between ISO 100 and 400 are not that big! (Only if you want to print A3 paper sizes). I choose ISO 400 and use f/8 to get 30 sec. If you choose ISO 100 and use f/8 you'll need a much longer shutter speed (to collect more light). The longer it will open, the more noise it will collect!!! So there you have to make a compromise.

Cheers

Herbertvh · Post by **Herbertvh** » 27 Dec 2006, 18:13

Not taken by me, but I do want you to see this wonderful photograph taken at night. Tech data on the shot can be found on the right of the photograph:

http://boyd.zenfolio.com/p356253717/?ph ... F#73004287" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Herbert

Aviaphotos · Post by **Aviaphotos** » 30 Dec 2006, 00:44

Vanavond op RTM geweest om de Gulfstream 2B te fotograferen. Deze stond helaas niet in het licht van de platformverlichting. Leuke verrassing was de nieuwe Avanti PH-HRK die op stond te starten.

Avanti PH-HRK: ISO100, f5.6, 2sec, 22mm

Gulf 2B N971EQ: ISO100, f5.6, 4sec, 24mm

Groeten,

Pim

Iwan Bogels · Post by **Iwan Bogels** » 31 Dec 2006, 15:39

Kom, laat ik er nog eens een paar nachtplaatjes tegenaan gooien. Past wel bij de sfeer van deze dagen.....

Net als Mustang1 gebruik ook ik een zeer stevig statief van Manfrotto, te weten de Manfrotto 055 PRO B in combinatie met de Manfrotto 222 kop. Tevens heb ik een Canon Remote Switch RS-80N3 om vibraties op de camera tegen te gaan. Bij elkaar is dat zo'n Euro 275,- aan apparatuur die ik (bijna) alleen voor nachtfoto's gebruik. Het had ook een stukje goedkoper gekund als ik een lichtgewicht statiefje zou gebruiken en gebruik zou maken van de zelfontspanner op de camera.

Verder is het vooral veel experimenteren met camera en computer. Want het gebeurt maar zelden dat een opname er in één keer uitkomt zoals je had gehoopt. Wat dat betreft: Lang leve de Aviation Photoshop Course !!

Prettige jaarwisseling !

Iwan

mustang1 · Post by **mustang1** » 31 Dec 2006, 15:55

Great pics Iwan!

Happy New year!

Frank "MUSTANG" Peters

Aviaphotos · Post by **Aviaphotos** » 03 Jan 2007, 23:30

And another one:

Regards,

Pim

Redskin301 · Post by **Redskin301** » 04 Jan 2007, 07:31

Die A-4 ziet er toch weer erg gaaf uit Iwa. Ik gebruik als statief wel zo'n
licht aluminium ding namelijk de Velbon Sherpa 550R. Ik heb al wel snel
geleerd dat je een klein beetje gewicht onder het midden kun hangen
voor extra stabiliteit

Ik heb bewust gekozen voor een licht statief
omdat ik niet graag teveel kilo's meeneem als ik op pad ga, ben het
liefst zo licht mogelijk

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Hoe fotografeer ik 's nachts

Fotografeer jij regelmatig in de nacht

Rafale

Volkel AB at Dusk