Should I buy a D800E?
The answer to this question depends entirely on what kind of photographer you are, and what kind of photography you practice. As you'll know if you've been through our exhaustive comparisons of the D800 and D800E, the extra $300 for the E version buys you a genuine increase in resolution - in optimal conditions. But that increase is small, and we've found that to leverage this difference requires you not only to pay close attention to your working method, but also your working aperture.
Within the zone of best sharpness for the lenses that we've primarily used for comparison (a 50mm and 85mm prime) the D800E only held a meaningful lead over the D800 between F4 and F5.6. By F11 diffraction narrows the difference between the two models to the extent that the D800 and D800E produce virtually identical results. By F16 - a reasonable working aperture for landscape photographers that want front-to-back focus - the difference between the D800 and D800E's Raw output is academic. So if you're a portrait photographer working between F4-5.6 then yes - in your day-to-day photography you'll see the benefit of the D800E's special sensor design. If you shoot wide open, or stopped right down though, you probably won't.
Most of our direct comparisons between the D800 and D800E were made from their respective Raw output, but as you'll see from our JPEG comparisons and from our image quality comparison pages the D800E's JPEG output is significantly superior to the D800's at optimal aperture settings. Not only do the D800E's JPEGs look sharper at default settings, they contain noticeably more detail - something that will be very attractive to casual photographers that want to save storage space on cards and hard drives, but also to professionals that want better looking JPEG 'proofs'. Even in our F16 comparison images the D800E's JPEGs appear 'better' although close inspection reveals that they are no more detailed.
Ultimately then, if you're weighing up the D800 and D800E, in our opinion there is no obvious downside to opting for the more expensive model beyond the extra cost. You get better image quality in both RAW and JPEG mode (although diffraction and lens aberrations remove that benefit at certain aperture settings). And color moiré in still images - in the relatively few instances we've encountered it - is typically only marginally more visible in the D800E than it is in equivalent scene elements captured by the D800.
Nee, of i.i.g. niet zondermeer.Gerbrand wrote:Een camera zonder anti-alliasing filter is als ik het goed begrijp door een hogere resolutie veel scherper
De zin in blauw hier is waar het om gaat, en ik durf te stellen dat geen van de luchtvaartfotografen hier aanwezig vaak onder dat soort omstandigheden werkt.the extra $300 for the E version buys you a genuine increase in resolution - in optimal conditions. But that increase is small, and we've found that to leverage this difference requires you not only to pay close attention to your working method, but also your working aperture.
Ik denk dat heathaze over die afstand dat soort details sowieso onzichtbaar maakt, filter of niet.Gerbrand wrote: Dus op basis van dat verhaal zou dat vertaald naar mijn eigen praktijk het verschil kunnen maken of ik de nummertjes, deze zomer geschoten van de Bismarckturm van het platform van Ramstein wel of niet kan lezen na flink kroppen.
Verschil hoe laat je er bent en met welke weersomstandigheden.Ik denk dat heathaze over die afstand dat soort details sowieso onzichtbaar maakt, filter of niet
Aha, we hebben het dus over nummeren en niet over strakke platen....Gerbrand wrote:Even naar boven knip knip knip en weer verder. Gaat sneller als lezen en schrijven.
Dat is nu een reactie waar ik op zit te wachten.Ik heb deze vraag voorgelegd aan mensen van Nikon mbt onze hobby, zij raadden de standaard D800 aan...
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